Still retaining much of its traditional charm, this 350-year-old city, better known under its old name, Madras, provides a fascinating insight into southern heritage. Chennai is proud of its Tamil culture and in many ways is still conservative, lacking the cosmopolitan edge of Mumbai and Delhi and certainly possessing little of the nightlife.

However, its literacy and educational levels are high, and women are conspicuous, whether riding their mopeds in a sari or working in Internet cafés. Music, dance and many other art forms from south India are widespread and enjoyed (the Tamil film industry is huge, competing with Mumbai for the sheer number of films churned out, for example) and religious heritage has left its mark with old churches, ancient temples and of course the wonderful shore temple of Ma'puram, an hour's drive away.

Chennai is not as frenetic as other colonial Indian cities, but it has grown dramatically and enjoyed huge economic growth in recent years, thanks mainly to a booming IT industry. Today, Chennai sprawls out in all directions over the flat land along the coast and up the river valley and feels uncentred and chaotic as new shopping malls and modern sky rises spring up, residential districts grow and spread, and squatter settlements are scattered throughout.

Rains are a big problem in the region, and Chennai often suffers destruction and chaos from its two rainy seasons. The tsunami of 2004 hit Tamil Nadu and affected some of the settlements on the beach in the city. Roads often flood and transport can be disrupted. There are two rainy seasons; September to December and the hot monsoons of June to August. Weather in the summer is uncomfortably hot and always humid; best time to visit is December to March.

Its stunning location on the waterfront has been an attraction for those wanting a tranquil atmosphere. The beachfront restaurants and some of the fishing community were affected by the 2004 tsunami, but are back to normal now. Mamallapuram has a superb collection of shore temples that have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site and it is still a renowned centre of stone carving and artisans are seen and heard chipping away. Highlights include: the Shore temple, Arjuna's Penance, one of the largest bas-reliefs in the world, the five monolithic stone shrines of Panch Pandava Rathas, and Mahishmardini Cave, a triple-celled temple with a mandapam in front.

Pondicherry (Puducherry): A former French trading station 189km (117 miles) south of Chennai, Pondi is a pleasant town with broad boulevards and some good restaurants, both legacies of the French. However it is most famous for the Sri Aurobindo Ashram which draws visitors in from throughout the world. It also has the French Institute, opened in 1955 for the study of Indian culture, and a number of French-influenced churches. The Botanical Gardens are attractive.

Kancheepuram: This sacred city 80km (50 miles) southwest of Chennai is one of Hinduism's seven most sacred and it has been a pilgrimage place for centuries. It now contains around 70 temples, each one with different characteristics: Ekambaresvara Temple, dedicated to Lord Siva, is one worth visiting, with its Thousand Pillar Hall. Kancheepuram has also been famous for its weavers for the last four centuries.\

Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary: The Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary, 85km (51 miles) southwest of Chennai, is a good place to appreciate some local environment – this is one of the largest bird sanctuaries in India; a marshy 30-hectare (74 acre) park with a lake, visited by an estimated 100,000 migratory birds annually. The best time to visit is between November and February. Species include herons, spoonbills, pelicans and white ibis.

Muttukadu
Tel: (04114) 272 603.

Guindy National Park
Situated within the city, adjacent to Raj Bhava, the park sprawls over hundreds of acres. It is home to species including the black buck (the rare Indian antelope), spotted deer, jackal and mongoose, and birdlife with parakeets, kingfishers and lapwings. Vegetation includes some centuries-old giant banyan trees. A good place to wander around the network of nature trails and lakes and get away from the noise and chaos of India for a few hours.

Guindy
Tel: (044) 2235 1941.

Drivers may try to increase the price, mid-journey, blaming rain and/or traffic jams. They may also try and drag you into a hard-selling emporium; declining is strongly advised. If you find a driver that you like, it is worth hiring him by the day or for the duration of your stay.

Public Transport

The suburban railway (0500-2300 daily; Rs5-8) runs approximately every 8 minutes between Central Railway and the northern suburbs, from east to west, and from the eastern beach to the southern suburbs. Stations include Egmore, the airport (Tirisulam), St Thomas Mount, Lighthouse (Marina Beach) and the fort (Park Town). Buses (0500-2200 daily) are extremely crowded and best avoided for longer journeys. Signs are in Tamil so ask around for the correct route and destination. It can be a real leap of faith, but this is definitely the cheapest way of getting around.

Taxis

Taxis are rarely seen except outside large hotels. For longer distances is it is advisable to book ahead (hotel can arrange). Companies include City (tel: (044) 2234 2121), Fast Track (tel: (044) 2473 2020) and Chennai (tel: (044) 2538 4455). Check the fee before setting out; most have a set tariff depending on the quality of vehicle (a/c or not) and minimum rate is Rs30 to Rs50.

Car Hire

Hiring a car with a driver is possible at the airport and from hotels; most major international companies are represented. Avis (tel: (011) 2390 6256 or (044) 234 4753; website: www.avis.com) and Hertz (tel: (044) 5211 8550 or 2235 3112) are safe bets. Local car hire companies include Praveenn Tours and Travels (tel: (044) 2485 2034 or 5534 5666; website: www.praveenntoursandtravels.com), CityCabs (tel: (044) 2815 7777 or 2815 7775) and ETC (tel: (044) 2827 2279 or 2822 4413; website: www.expresstravelcorp.com). Rates differ depending on quality of the vehicle. It is strongly recommended that you do not try to drive yourself – not only is it difficult to deal with the vagaries of Indian driving, but the cost of the insurance will probably outweigh the cost of a driver.

The restaurants below have been classed in four different pricing categories:
$$$$ (over Rs1,200)
$$$ (Rs800 to Rs1,200)
$$ (Rs400 to Rs800)
$ (under Rs400)
These prices include a three-course meal for one, with half a bottle of house wine or equivalent. Tax and tip included.

six-o-one
Specialising in freshly cooked pasta and pizzas, this 24-hour informal restaurant has wonderful contemporary, stylish décor and also a selection of Indian and continental dishes. Perch at the pasta-choco bar while your dish is prepared in front of you, or indulge in the diverse Sunday Brunch. With a great selection of wines from around the world, purchase two bottles with dinner and you can dine in the semi-private wine room.

Park Hotel, 601 Anna Salai
Tel: (044) 5214 4000.
Website: http://chennai.theparkhotels.com/chennai_rest.html
Price: $$

Dakshin
Dakshin, which means 'south', has a wonderful selection of top-class dishes from Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Andhra and Karnataka. Especially noted for its seafood (squid, lobster and prawns) and a great range of tasty starters, the 'Sarvottamam' section on the menu features the best of the food festivals held at Dakshan and highly recommended. It has a highly ornate yet reasonably intimate interior, with statues of traditional deities and atmospheric lighting. Formal service and live music daily during lunch and dinner. Twice voted among the top 10 restaurants in India.

ITC Hotel Park Sheraton and Towers, TTK Road
Tel: (044) 2499 4101.
Price: $$$

Benjarong
The city's best Thai restaurant is justifiably popular with the great and the good of Chennai. It seats up to 64 people but is divided into smaller areas so the atmosphere is very cosy. Best known for its seafood, recommended dishes include lobster with garlic and black pepper, and stir fried prawns. It also has a good selection of chicken and vegetarian dishes.

146 TTK Road, Alwarpet
Tel: (044) 2432 2640.
Price: $$

Peshawri
Sister restaurant of the fabulous Bukhara's in Delhi, made famous by Bill Clinton, Peshawri has great North West Frontier cuisine. Predominantly cooked on the charcoal grill, in an open kitchen, the tandoor lobster and the marinated whole leg of lamb are popular, also good vegetarian dishes for non-carnivores. Wonderful ambience with authentic décor of the region. Individual platters are a good way to taste a selection of dishes (meat or veg). Busy at weekends.

Chola Sheraton, Cathedral Road
Tel: (044) 2811 0101.
Price: $$$-$$$$

Saravanas
A real Chennai institution, this is a perfect place to sample a wonderful range of south Indian cuisine, from the well-known staples like dosai, uthapam and poori to something more extravagant. Try the Saravana special thali with 23 different items to taste the great selection. The chain includes informal branches for a lunch or quick bite, to those with more formal silver-service, suitable for dinner.

239 Peters Road, Gopalapuram
Tel: (044) 2835 1155.
Website: www.saravanabhavan.com
Price: $

ongol, mid-Jan, biggest regional festival with four days of celebrations symbolising prosperity and abundance from a fruitful harvest; temple celebrations and decorated cows honoured for their contribution to harvest. Jallikatu, a bullfight, is often held on the final day

Bramhorchavam, May-Jun, the Grand Annual Festival takes place at the Sri Kalikambal Temple over 12 days in May-June

Independence Day, 15 Aug (national holiday), throughout the city
Dussehra, Hindu festival, Oct, throughout city

Velankanni Church Festival, Aug/Sep, attracts thousands of pilgrims, many of them leaving votive miniature body parts in silver or gold, to this huge white wedding cake of a church, with a supposedly miraculous shrine of Our Lady of Healing

Navarati, Sep-Oct, literally the festival of nine nights; to honour the goddess Sakthi for power, wealth and knowledge

Deepavali, Nov, major Hindu festival throughout city; festival of lights punctuated with firecrackers from dawn and fireworks at night, new clothes and sweets, small candles lit at dusk outside every home Karthikal Deepam, Nov-Dec, festival of lights with lamps and firecrackers celebrated on full moon Festival of Carnatic Music and Dance, mid-Dec-mid-Jan, one of the largest in the world Arts Festival, 10 days over Dec-Jan, Kalakshreta Arts Village

Bird Watching This is another excellent activity for all but the youngest family members and there are numerous sanctuaries in the area where you can do this.

Boating Pop down to Muttukadu 36km from Chennai if you fancy a spot of boating as the Tamil Nadu Tourist Development Corporation runs a boat house here. Other water sport activities such as windsurfing are also available. Call the boat house on: 603104 for more information. Another place to go boating is at Tarsha Water Sports. If you like sailing, you can do this in Chennai too.

Bowling (Ten Pin) The place to go for this great family activity is at Snow Bowling. Located on the third floor of HM Centre, Nungambakkam, it's the first bowling alley in the city and has four lanes, a food joint, a pool table, a giant TV screen, and karaoke facility. On weekends, there's Cosmic Bowling, or Glow-in-the-dark Bowling, where all the balls glow, and the whole place is lit up in blue. It’s open from 11:00 am to 2:00 am. And you can telephone the place on: 8264045 or 821 3306 for more information. Other bowling centres can be found at Down Under and Mayajaal.

Bungee Jumping If you enjoy the trill of falling from an incredible height, then don’t miss this exciting action at the VGP Universal Kingdom. Located on the East Coast Road, Injambakkam, Chennai you can find out more by telephoning: 4491441 or 4491443.

Clubs The Presidency Club established in 1929 has facilities for tennis, reading, cards, billiards and dining. Within the complex are a health club, gymnasium, sauna and massage facilities if your hotel doesn’t already cater to these activites. The place is located at 6, Commander in Chief Road, Egmore, Chennai telephone: 8226885 or 8226886 for more information.

Disco Info If your hotel doesn’t caster to this sort of evening entertainment one of the more popular places to visit is HFO (Hell Freezes Over). This place is hot and has state-of-the-art sound and lighting systems, a billiards table, two bars, 3 super-cool DJs and an atmosphere that is simply electrifying. You can party all week long, save Mondays (rights of admission and membership being strictly reserved). Don't miss Friday and Saturday nights for that is when HFO is really happening. There is also an exclusive Ladies Night on Wednesdays.

Entertainment Complexes are many and one of the more popular venues can be found some 18 km from the heart of Chennai at Mayajaal. This huge multiple entertainment complex, is unique not only in the sense that it is one of its kind in Chennai, but also in the whole of India. It has a pool parlour, a gaming alley with 50 different games, a shopping area, an 8-lane bowling alley, six theatres and a food court. The place is open from 11 a.m. to 11.30 p.m. Another great entertainment centre can be found at the 27-acre MGM Dizzee World where visitors can ride the Tornado Coaster, the Nilgiris Express (meaning Blue Mountain Express) and the Revolution, to churn your guts. Your kids can meet Jack and Jill or Humpty Dumpty as well as other nursery rhyme and cartoon characters as well as enjoying the fun rides. Located at No.1, 9th Street, Dr Radhakrishnan Salai, Mylapore, Chennai you can call the place on: 8571415 for more information. Yet another good amusement/entertainment centre can be found at Down Under located in the basement of 123, Marshalls Road, Egmore. This is a big one-stop fun spot with a four-lane bowling alley, eight video games, two snooker tables, a mini-golf course, a video karaoke room, a giant TV screen, and a restaurant. The place really lights up on Fridays and weekends with Disco Bowling, where you have a DJ with 4,800 watts of music and psychedelic lighting. Open from 11:00 am to 11:00 pm. You can call the place on: 8413911 for more information. Another great place to visit is the VGP Universal Kingdom where there are thrill-rides like the balloon race, dashing cars, bumping boats, bungee jumping... the works. And just in case you need a quiet time after the fun and games, there is the golden beach for which the park is well-known. Located on the East Coast Road, Injambakkam, Chennai you can find out more by telephoning: 4491441 or 4491443.

Go-Karting The thrill of getting behind the wheel of a four-wheel drive, even if it just a go-kart cannot be explained. 5 km from the heart of the city, Kart Beat has an indoor karting centre worth spending an hour or two at with the family and can be found at 38, Arcot Road, Chennai. Give them a call on: 4836600 or fax the place on: 4831770 for more information. Another exciting venue is Kart Attack spread out over 1.75 acres of land on the East Coast Road and you can call the place on: 4492386 for more information.

Golf Golfing fans will be pleased to know that they haven't been forgotten and can enjoy a round or two at the Cosmopolitan Golf Club, Golf Annexe, 334, Mount Road, Nandanam, Chennai. For more information call the club on: 91-44-4322759 or 4351330

Hang Gliding Float aloft and get great views away from the crowds when you go hang gliding. For more information please ask on arrival as although we have heard that this sport can be done in Chennai, at the time of writing no information is available. If you have any send it to us so that we may share the information with future visitors.

Horse Riding The Madras Riding School, affiliated to the Madras Race Club offers training in horse riding, show jumping and dressage as well as polo. Initially known as Madras Riding Club, it was merged with the Madras Polo and Riders Club a few years ago and was renamed. The person to contact for more information is Mr N V Ravi telephone: 8240936 or 8260894. Another place to contact if you fancy going for a ride is the Velkom Equestrian Centre who offer adventure trails on horse back, through casuarinas groves, paddy fields, around lakes and through villages. The centre is a five-minute drive from Fisherman's Cove and is open Tuesday to Sunday from 6.00 a.m. to 9.00 a.m. and from 3.00 p.m. to 6.00 p.m. For more information call the place on: 8279580. These are not the only horse riding choices visitors can have as the Chennai Equestrian Academy also offers equestrian adventures. Give them a call on Telefax: 4411581 or email Kishore Futnani, the owner on: kishore45@mailmetoday.com for more information.

Horse Racing The sport of kings can be found at the Madras Race Club. At this prestigious course, fortunes have been won and lost, since its beginnings in 1777, and it is the oldest club in India. Today, live telecast of races from all over the country can be viewed here if you fancy betting on other races in the country while visiting. For more information call the club on: 235 1171 / 72 / 73

Live Shows are held all the time and for information on them you are best advised to check the listings in the local newspaper or ask at your hotel on arrival.

Mini Golf can be played at Down Under where the delightful three hole course is nicely landscaped. The first two holes have to be completed in two strokes while three strokes is par for the third hole. Mini-golf affords an admirable opportunity for kids to experience the deeply addictive game and is a great way to introduce them to real golf. Another even better venue for this sport is at the Carloton Hotel, located on Lake Road, Kodaikanal, Tamil Nadu.

Nightlife Chennai’s nightlife venues improve as each year passes and there are a number of venues to choose from. If your hotel doesn’t already cater to evening entertainment ask for details on the venue closest to your hotel on arrival.

Paragliding The place to go is Tarsha Water Sports who not only offer paragliding but have jet ski's, power boats and wind surfing on offer too. For the less adventurous there are lot of easier rides you can try. Tarsha is located close to Mahabalipuram and can be contacted by calling: 044-8270154 or 4415794.

Picnicking is a popular pastime throughout India and popular spots can be found throughout the area, one being at Muttukadu 36km from Chennai.

Polo This is a popular equestrian sport in many parts of the country and details of events are listed in the local newspapers or you can call the Madras Riding School (Polo Club) on 8240936 or 8260894 for more information.

Rock Climbing An often-used location near Chennai is Tada, with rock-faces to climb, streams to ford and hills to provide the right ambience. Another popular spot for this sport is at Kambakkam about 100 km north of Chennai but there are other areas closer to the city too worth trying. For more information on this activity ask at your hotel on arrival.

Roller Skating It is time to rock ‘n roll with your feet on wheels and anybody from 4 years upward is welcome. The Youngster Roller Skate is affiliated to the Chennai Roller Skating Association and is open 6 a.m. to 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. to 9 p.m. Located at 52, A.P. Road, Choolai, Chennai you can telephone the place on: 5321324 or 6610495 for more information.

Sailing If you enjoy feeling the wind in your hair, the breeze at your back and like being out on the water, this is a great activity for all ages. For more information get hold of the Tamil Nadu Sailing Association via e-mail on: tamilnadusailingassoc-iation@hotmail.com or call 5353857.

Snooker/Pool/Billiards For some snooker action pop down to Wild West Chennai's first theme Snooker/Pool parlour, if your hotel doesn’t already cater to this activity. This Western Saloon look-alike has two standard, two medium-sized, and four pool tables. There's also a small (Baby) table for the tiny tots. You’ll find it at S-77, Spencer Plaza Phase II, Second Floor, 769, Anna Salai and can telephone the place on: 8517572 / 73 for more information. Other snooker parlours can be found at Down Under and Mayajaal.

Theme Parks A 120 acre theme park with an artificially-created waterfall can be found at Kishkinta. Here one can go boating through rough rapids, take a ride on the dragon roller coaster or water scooters, try go-kart racing and let your kids try 3D film screening. Another highlight of a visit is the Laser Show. Located at 82, Varadharajapuram, 2nd Ward, Tambaram, Chennai you can call the place on: 825 6880/8988 or 2367244 for more information. For those who like a lot of water rides, you can’t afford to miss Dash and Splash. As the name suggests, this is exclusively a water-borne package of fun. Dash N Splash is situated on the Chennai - Bangalore highway (NH4). Among its must-do rides are the Wave slide, the Spiral slide and the Free fall slide. For those who want it plain and simple, there are swimming pools, an artificial rainfall shower and an artificial waterfall that complete the wet and whacky experience. The place is open from 10.00 am till dark (all days of the year) and can be contacted via the office on: 5212249, 526 7702, 5225684 or 522 4618 or at the park itself on: 913-56211 or 913-56200. More information on adventure fun can be found with our information on Amusement Centres and Entertainment Complexes.

Water Sports The place to go for some great water sporting activities is the Tarsha Water Sports who have jet ski's, power boats and wind surfing on offer. If you love the water this is the place. For the less adventurous there are lot of easier rides you can try. Tarsha is located close to Mahabalipuram and can be contacted by calling: 044-8270154 or 4415794.

Wind Surfing can be done anywhere along the coast but one of the more popular spots can be found at Muttukadu 36km from Chennai as well as in Mahabalipuram at the Tarsha Water Sports centre.

The TTDC also run a variety of one-day round trips, including Mamallapuram, Tirupathi and Pondicherry. These include a tour of the major attractions at each place. They can all be booked at any TTDC and the Government of India Tourist offices.